As I eat my breakfast, sip my coffee and write, I am reminded of the Croquembouche we made earlier this week. I had a really hard time getting into some of the crazy things, like food coloring and pistachios. Instead, I kept mine pretty darn traditional. Only caramel for me. But I am also reminded of my favorite piece of writing inside any baking book. Here it is. A lovely way to start a Saturday.
"The pastries we make are deliciously simple and rustic and never too sweet. Woven into many of them are my favorite flavors: butter, cinnamon, nuts, and fruit.They're familiar, uncomplicated, and satisfying. One taste and you're instant;y comforted. Inspired by a sweet memory from childhood, a European classic, or a time-honored bakeshop standard, they are flavors you never tire of...
Except for a sprinkling of nuts, a dusting of powdered sugar, or a drizzling of glaze, no fastidious finishing work is necessary. Once the pastry is in the oven, the baker's job is done. As these doughs and batters cook, their intrinsic beauty naturally evolves. Rich colors and alluring textures take us by surprise. Flaky, soft or crumbly, tender, moist, or crisp, these treats compel you to take another bite. As the sugars caramelize in the oven, they accent the crust with a lustered sheen. Heat and alchemy produce a palate of deep, earthy tones from burnished reds and browns to dull and shiny golds and yellows...
As I look around at all of the handsome shapes of crescents, twists, and coils and the delightful assortment of cookies, scones, tarts, savories, and confections, I am excited and amazed. But it's that final glance, that close-up view, that reveals their truth. Simple, Humble, and beautiful, this is the stuff I love."
~ Nancy Silverton
This reminds me of yet one other thing. Mid way through my time in Paris, I went to a bakery I had been looking forward to for quite sometime. I remember reading about Ble Sucre in a magazine, which described it as having "perfectly done classics." They were perfect. Absolutely perfect. I still, to this day, am convinced that the croissant I ate there was the most delicious a croissant can be. It was perfection. Just look at it...
Just look at that layering...incredible.
And next to this croissant is a wonderful little Pear Crumble Tart, dusted with powdered sugar. That magazine nailed it. This bakery was simply perfectly done classics. Watch out you Longmonters, one day, Main Street is going to have an American bakery with simple, but perfectly done classics. This day in Paris, was one of the most memorable food experiences of my life. After working for so long, in a bakery which really produced some of the most incredible pastries in Colorado, it was difficult to get inspired again. This is partially because Colorado is so huge, that to find other bakeries takes a while. And honestly, most just don't cut it. That's why I went to Europe alone, to find new things, see things I could never even imagine, and meet people that are as excited about food as I am.
Later that day, sitting on a bench outside the bakery after it closed, I wrote this, in my notebook.
"Today I found it - the world's greatest croissant. I am absolutely convinced one cannot taste or look more perfect than this one. Nestled in a run down little quarter of Paris, there's a tiny shop which exceeds all others in both character and quality. And then, after enjoying both the Parisians sharing my table and the pastries before me, I got to speak to the owner, and head chef. One of the most famous pastry chefs in Paris, and therefore the world, I got to thank him for the experience, and then we chatted for a bit. This is why I'm in Paris. This is why I love pastries. I sat for hours watching the people enjoy the products made by this man's two hands. And I saw him, looking at his pastry case, feeling accomplished and content. And he offered to take my dishes. Today I am reminded of why what I do makes me so happy, and so fulfilled. This is what I love."
Then I went back to eat there every morning until I left Paris. Incredible.
This is called Kouign Aman. It is essentially croissant dough, rolled in sugar, and folded up to maximize the caramelization of the sugar and the layering of the dough. It was crisp, and slightly sticky on the outside, but wonderfully flaky, and tender inside. The layers just melted on your tongue, as the caramelized sugar tickled the taste buds. The chef has a reputation for these, and they most certainly lived up to all expectations, and far exceeded them.
Like an apple turnover, but filled with applesauce - so simple, so homey, and so delicious. The pastry was incredibly flakey, which, when contrasted with the fruity softness of the apples, paired perfectly in the mouth.
Their version of an Almond Croissant - just in a round shape, rather than a crescent shape. So good.
Plum Tart. I could never sit their looking at my pastries long enough to take a picture without first taking a bite..
My chef and I are pretty constantly discussing the balance between interesting and pleasant. Although I had a pretty wild phase, where I was into combining really different ingredients, to be really interesting, I have calmed down quite a bit since. Maybe a growing up thing. The Pastry 2 students often bring their projects into our room, for sampling and critique. Last week, it was bon bons. I have a lot of respect for the boldness, and creativity of some. But, in the end, my theory on pastries (or food, rather) is this - Everything should be pleasant to eat. Sometimes, that means down-home breakfast pastries, and simple fruit desserts. My chef at school has very similar taste, which makes us a good instructor-student team. A few nights ago, I was telling my dad that I am curious to see if any instructors further through the course criticize me for not being creative enough. But, I believe in simple, delicious, and pleasant pastries. They can be interesting, and new and inventive, so long as they are still pleasant. And this was.
This was a brioche creme brulee. It was a thin dish of creme brulee base, with a few slices of brioche tucked in it. Not as bready as bread pudding, but more interesting than creme brulee. Then, it was caramelized on top. Interesting, yet insanely enjoyable to eat.
As I was sitting there, enjoying my pastries, on my last day in Paris, with my backpack ready to head back to Austria, a little bird hopped on the chair across from me. It feels longer ago than it was, but as a college freshman, I was given a job waiting the counter at a really great, brand new bakery. Then, my boss graciously apprenticed me in the kitchen, beginning one day a week. Then, just a few months later, I told my parents I wouldn't be returning to the university, and started working full time in the kitchen. Just me and my boss, she taught me everything I know. But more importantly, she introduced me to the greatest amount of happiness - working in a pastry kitchen. The early mornings, the long hours, the dry hands, and the tiredness were all irrelevant, because I was doing exactly what I love. Since then, birds have a much deeper significance. I was sitting outside the greatest pastry shop in Paris, remembering what it is about baking that I love so dearly, and then, all of a sudden, this Little Bird hops on the chair across from me, and just sits for a while. These are the days you never forget.
Cheers.
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